Hotel de Russie Rome: Inside Rocco Forte’s Historic Luxury Hotel

Rocco Forte Hotels has been on my list of stays for some time, so I welcomed the opportunity to experience one of its flagship properties, Hotel de Russie in Rome. I had been curious about this property because of its historic connection with Russian aristocrats and artists who frequented the Eternal City in the 19th century.

Over time, Hotel de Russie became a landmark near Piazza del Popolo, hosting an eclectic mix of guests, from painters to politicians. Pablo Picasso and Jean Cocteau stayed at Hotel de Russie in adjoining rooms in February 1917 while working on Parade, the groundbreaking Ballets Russes production that brought together Cocteau, composer Erik Satie, Picasso and choreographer Léonide Massine. Picasso remained in Rome for about three months, and the hotel now honors his stay with the Picasso Suite.  

The hotel's celebrity guest list continued to grow decades later, with George Clooney, Brad Pitt and Julia Roberts among the stars who stayed at the property during the filming of Ocean's Twelve in Rome in 2004. Leonardo DiCaprio has also been reported as a guest, as has Jennifer Aniston, and British musician Morrissey later spent several weeks at Hotel de Russie while recording his 2005 album Ringleader of the Tormentors in Rome.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

The entrance lobby of the Hotel de Russie features high, white vaulted ceiling arches, classic art busts, glass pendant chandeliers, and a grand central floral display on a round marble table. Moving through this light-filled corridor leads directly into the hotel's Secret Garden, a tranquil, multi-tiered outdoor courtyard enclosed by soft pastel-pink facades with blue shutters. Anchored by a grand double staircase leading up to lush, elevated terraces of palms and citrus trees, this serene courtyard was one of my favorite spots. It hosts the dining area for Le Jardin de Russie, with intimate tables set for outdoor dining. This is also where I enjoyed my daily breakfast.

Location

Situated on Via del Babuino between Piazza di Spagna and Piazza del Popolo, the location is exceptionally practical for exploring Rome on foot. The hotel sits right at the foot of the Pincio hill, mere steps from the gallery-lined Via Margutta.  

Major cultural sites like the Villa Borghese gardens are practically in the backyard, while the Spanish Steps are a short five-minute walk away. For airport transfers, Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino Airport (FCO) is roughly a 45-minute drive depending on Roman traffic, while Ciampino (CIA) takes about 35 minutes.  

While public transit and taxis are readily accessible outside the entrance, renting a car is generally unnecessary and discouraged due to Rome’s strict Limited Traffic Zones (ZTL). I found that walking was by far the best way to navigate the area, and I always looked forward to returning to the quiet courtyard of the hotel after exploring the crowded city streets.

History

The land where Hotel de Russie currently sits was originally acquired in 1816 by the Marquis Francesco Lucernari, who commissioned architect Giuseppe Valadier to design a noble palace. Valadier was simultaneously designing the famous semicircles of Piazza del Popolo, and his work here served as a private, small-scale blueprint for what he would later construct on the Pinciano Hill.  

In the 1820s, the structure opened as the "Albergo di Russia," drawing international aristocracy, Russian royalty, and artists like sculptor John Gibson. The hotel changed hands over the decades, welcoming figures like Prince Girolamo Bonaparte, Sergei Diaghilev, and Pablo Picasso as I mentioned earlier.

After serving as a military information service headquarters during World War II and later housing the offices of Italy’s national broadcaster (RAI) for several decades, Sir Rocco Forte acquired the property in 1999. A multi-year restoration project concluded between 2020 and 2021, bringing Valadier’s original 19th-century "Secret Garden" layout back to light, restoring its terraced balustrades, classical nymphs, and trickling water fountains.  

Rooms & Suites

Hotel de Russie offers 120 elegant rooms and suites, including 34 suites, blending residential comfort with understated Italian elegance. I stayed in a Deluxe Suite with a Garden View, measuring roughly 484 square feet (45 m²). The layout made excellent use of space, prioritizing natural light through large windows that framed the terraced greenery outside.  

One detail I particularly liked was the clever integration of local craftsmanship throughout the room. The custom armchairs wrapped in Dedar fabrics, subtle bas-reliefs inspired by Roman antiquities, and warm tones of ochre and burnt orange immediately establish an authentic sense of place without feeling heavy-handed.  

The king-size bed was comfortable, made up with crisp Italian linens. Storage was well thought out, featuring a spacious built-in wardrobe that easily accommodated clothing for a longer stay. The bathroom was clad in Italian Calacatta marble, equipped with a generous walk-in shower, plush robes, and I loved the Irene Forte Skincare products.  

Despite the hotel's central location overlooking the Secret Garden, which was hosting a corporate event, my room remained completely silent at night thanks to its soundproof windows.

For those seeking expansive living quarters, the hotel's Forte Suites—such as the Picasso Suite, Nijinsky Suite with its 2,572-square-foot (239 m²) terrace—offer multi-room layouts and massive private outdoor spaces overlooking the Pincio.  

Dining

Dining at the property centers around Le Jardin de Russie, overseen by Chef Fulvio Pierangelini. The restaurant interior was redesigned by artist Gio Bressana, who painted large murals of citrus trees, butterflies, and foliage onto the walls, echoing the gardens outside.  

I enjoyed having both breakfast and dinner out in the Secret Garden. Breakfast was served buffet-style with an extensive spread of items, alongside a full menu of hot meals available cooked to order. I suggest ordering the poached eggs with local artichokes, if available during your stay.  

For dinner in the garden, the kitchen focuses heavily on elevated Roman classics made with regional ingredients. I tried the signature cacio e pepe ravioli, which was light yet precise in flavor, followed by sea bass served with local herbs.  

Adjacent to the garden is the Stravinskij Bar, a popular gathering spot for both hotel guests and Roman locals. Led by Bar Manager Mattia Capezzuoli with signature creations from mixologist Salvatore Calabrese, the bar serves well-crafted cocktails alongside light bites. Sit outside near Piazzetta Valadier under the heated lamps during cooler evenings to enjoy the atmosphere.  

Amenities & Wellness

The heart of the property is its Valadier-designed Secret Garden. I spent several afternoons sitting by the stone basins and water features. The terraced layout creates small private nooks surrounded by pine trees, citrus plants, and climbing vines, making it easy to forget you are in the middle of a capital city.  

Indoor wellness revolves around the Irene Forte Spa, a 6,458-square-foot (600 m²) facility located on the lower level. The wellness space includes a hydromassage pool with thermal water features, a Finnish sauna and steam room, private treatment rooms utilizing Mediterranean botanical products, and a fully equipped fitness center with Technogym equipment.  

Don't miss the thermal pool after a long day of walking around the city. It was an ideal place to relax and recover. The spa cabins and changing rooms were recently updated, with a full renovation of the wet areas planned in the coming years.

Experiences

The hotel excels at organizing private cultural access through its concierge team, particularly for guests staying in the top-tier Forte Suites.  

Rather than standard sightseeing, the hotel can arrange curated "Art Running" tours with a personal trainer through the Villa Borghese gardens early in the morning before the crowds arrive. They also coordinate private access to local artisan workshops near Via Margutta, guided wine tastings featuring small Italian producers, and personal shopping tours through Rome's high-fashion houses along Via dei Condotti.  

Good to Know

Best Room Categories: If quiet is your priority, request a room facing the Secret Garden rather than the street or Piazzetta Valadier.  

Meetings & Events: The property offers notable venue flexibility, including four indoor meeting spaces—most notably Sala Torlonia, which accommodates up to 100 guests—alongside outdoor garden terraces like the Garden Pergolato (capacity 100) and Terrazza Diaghilev (capacity 50) for private gatherings.  

Accessibility: The hotel offers accessible public spaces and select adapted guest rooms, though the terraced garden itself features historic stone stairs that may be challenging for guests with limited mobility.  

Checking In: Standard check-in is at 15:00, and check-out is at 12:00. The concierge is happy to store luggage securely if you arrive early.

Valet Parking: On-site valet parking is available for a daily fee, but given the ZTL restrictions, it is best arranged with the hotel prior to arrival if you are driving.

Wi-Fi: High-speed Wi-Fi is complimentary throughout the property and proved fast enough for video calls and streaming.

Hotel Information

Hotel Name: Hotel de Russie, a Rocco Forte Hotel  

Address: Via del Babuino 9, 00187 Roma, Italy  

Telephone: +39 06 328881  

Website: Hotel de Russie

Instagram: @hotelderussie

By ML Staff. Photos/Hotel de Russie